When to Use bilge hose？

1. Manifolds do not work. If multiple pumps run at one time, it will reduce the outputs of the pumps, or possibly push water back through a non running pump discharge line.
2. The sanitation line works well.
3. A small maintenance pump works well to keep the water volume low in each bilge for normal bilge water. The second pump is great if your maintenance pump is overwhelmed or fails. The third is a crash pump if all pumps fail or are overwhelmed with water.
4. This would require 9 additional through hulls. As far as placement of them. Remember the higher and the longer the run of the discharge will reduce the ability of the pump to discharge water. Keep the runs short as possible. Install loops above the discharge with an anti-siphon break so water will not be sucked back in. Hard pipe is not recommended and almost impossible to route through a boat anyway.

5. You said the boat had 2 rule pumps in the ER by the engines and an odd discharge. Seems to me you have an older vessel with common bilges. If they are not the low points of the ship, maybe consider having a single small pump in each area of the ship for keeping water levels low. Install the larger DC pump at the low collection bilge. Keep crash pump in a higher location in case of a problem or even a mobile pump.


How much pumping is enough? In an event when you need that much water pumping you will probably be abandoning ship. You will have encountered a major event. Every through hull port in a boat is a place for water to enter as it goes down. So more pumps = more water entry points.

Catching the water before the second pump starts is the key. Sounds like you have a common bilge. Find the lowest water point in the boat. Install a small bilge pump (to keep as much water out as possible). Next, install a high water alarm. This should go off before any other pump turns on. This will protect you from failure of the first or overwhelming it. Then your first larger pump should run but not turn off the alarm. If you feel you need additional pumps from there it's up to you. If when you're underway the water collects somewhere else in the vessel, repeat the assembly there.

Personally, in my vessel, I have a single pump in each sump/sealed bilge area. 7 compartments in all, 2200 GPH rules. Each bilge pump sets off an indicator light upon running, Each compartment has a high water alarm set as low as possible. Each compartment has a bilge dry bilge evacuator to keep all water out. I carry an AC sump pump on the boat rigged with 50' of hose. If I have a major failure I place the pump in the appropriate area. I use the same pump in each area. I carry 2 extra new bilge pumps and float switches. If I have a failure of a pump or float, it gets switched out, no need to even change the base.

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Every boat owner understands that keeping the bilge dry is essential for the vessel's safety and longevity. But when exactly should one use a bilge hose? To answer this question, we'll divide our discussion into several key situations and purposes.

Routine Water Removal

For everyday removal of water that seeps into the bilge from rain, waves, or minor leaks, a bilge hose connected to a bilge pump is essential. This setup ensures that your boat stays dry and minimizes the risk of water damage.

Emergency Situations

In scenarios where water pumps fail, a bilge hose can be a lifesaver. It can be used to manually pump out water when the automatic bilge pumps are either non-functional or overwhelmed. Always keep a spare bilge hose handy for such emergencies.

Regular Maintenance

Regularly inspect and clean your bilge hose to ensure it remains free of obstructions. A clogged bilge hose can render your bilge pump ineffective, compromising your vessel's safety.

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System Upgrades

If you're upgrading your bilge system, including additional bilge hoses can provide redundancy and improve overall effectiveness. This is particularly useful for older vessels that may not have enough capacity to handle significant water ingress.

Placement and Installation Tips

When installing a bilge hose, ensure it's as short and straight as possible. Long and convoluted runs reduce discharge efficiency. Incorporate an anti-siphon break to prevent water from being sucked back into the bilge.

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When most boat owners work up the nerve to reach down into the questionable waters of their bilge, it's usually to determine why their pumps failed, rather than how to keep them from doing so in the first place. After hull integrity, bilge pumps are often the first and only line of defense against sinking, yet many boaters develop a frighteningly cavalier attitude toward their maintenance and operation.

New boats often come with too few or poorly installed pumps, while owners of older boats need to make sure previous owners didn't skimp on capacity when forced to replace one. Knowing how different bilge pumps work, how many you should have, and how to spot installation problems are good places to begin understanding these vital pieces of safety equipment.

Know Your Type

Bilge pumps perform two functions. The first and primary function is ridding the boat of normal accumulations of nuisance water (such as rain or packing gland drips). The second is to assist emergency pumps during a flooding situation (more on these pumps later).

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The most common types of electrical bilge pumps are centrifugal and diaphragm pumps.

Centrifugal pumps move water by kinetic energy. Water enters the pump, picks up speed as the impeller rotates, and is then forced out by its own momentum. These pump a lot of water, are relatively inexpensive, and are designed to operate while completely submerged. Most centrifugal pumps have large internal tolerances and can pass small amounts of debris. This, however, makes them highly sensitive to vertical or static head &#; in other words, the higher they have to push water vertically, the less effective they become.

Diaphragm pumps are self-priming and work on a principle called "positive displacement," meaning they act like little vacuums to suck out bilge water. The action of the diaphragm pulls water into the pump through an intake valve and then pushes it out through an output valve. These pumps can pass small amounts of debris, but their check valves are prone to clogging and failure if too much is present.

Pros for diaphragm pumps include the ability to mount them up and away from the corrosive environment of the bilge (which increases ease and likelihood of maintenance), more robust construction, and a longer life cycle than most centrifugal pumps. They're also less sensitive to the effects of static head. Cons are a smaller rating capacity (as compared to centrifugal pumps), more moving parts, and higher cost. They're also physically larger, meaning they take up more space and require more power to operate. They're also not waterproof and must be mounted in a dry location.

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