Questions You Should Know about Water Well UPVC Filter Pipe

Water well dude,

Thanks for the reply. Let me restate the situation.

The well driller is a person that regularly drills 250 foot deep, 8 inch boreholes for closed loop geothermal applications in our area. The geology here in central Oklahoma is that the bore holes will not quickly collapse. There is time to put in the vertical loop or, in the case of a water well, to place a PVC casing and then pour sand/gravel around the casing. I called him again tonight and sometimes he does use mud, but many (most) times he can drill the borehole without it.

The existing 160 foot well (40-50 years old) is recently (last summer) drawing air and due to the extreme drout, the water table is lowering. In the summer, when I irrigate around the house, the water looks "milky" indicating that the pump is cavitating due to the water table being unable to provide enough water to replenish the water being pumped out of the well. Last fall I had to replace the 1 HP pump, lower the pump placement by an additional 10 feet (to within 15 feet of the well bottom) and this winter the project is to put in a deeper well.

Yes, there is some water at 40-60 feet down, but the quantity of water is low and getting lower due to long term low rainfall. In this area, most all water well drillers now recommend putting in a 250 foot well as there are more water bearing gravels down lower. The geology is that there are water sands and then shale/clay layers and then more water sands with more and more available water the deeper you go.

I also understand that the casing should be 160 # PVC and I can get 5 inch diameter locally for about $2.50 a foot (20 foot lengths with bell ends). I can also get some sections of perforated 5 inch, 160 # PVC casing pipe and a woven "sock" to slide on the perforated casing to prevent sand intrusion into the casing (all from local pump water well supply house in Oklahoma City).

Many local drillers do not use perforated pipe, but cut it themselves in the PVC casing with a hacksaw blade so the cut is only about 20% around the casing diameter and many cuts being put in. The well drillers do not use a sock, but just washed gravel/stone outside the liner. The well supply house thinks this is "old school" and strongly prefer the pre made perforated pipe for the lower 40-80 feet and the use of the sock. Obviously, sections of the casing higher up are solid casing and not perforated.

The cost of the borehole digger is $ to dig a 250 foot deep 8 inch borehole. I would have the PVC casing on hand and he helps me put it in borehole, glue up the joints, fill the cavity space with sand/gravel and grout the upper twenty feet with cement. Well drillers that do all the above, are charging $20 or more a foot to drill and place PVC casing. Then the extra expense for electric submersible pump . . .

Once I have a PVC cased well, I can install a 1 HP submersible pump.

Does the above explain the situation?

Thanks for your help.

Steve

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my Dad probably put this in 25 years ago - well water, 1" pvc line .... why the filter hangs in the open like this I have no idea .... but that filter is old enough that its tough to get changed and the stress on 25 year old PVC ...... I'm done with itI want to install a better 2 filter systemmy questions - from the wall where the pvc pipe comes from the well , can I tap into that with a flexible of some kind, run to a wall mounted 2 filter system then back to the tank ? do I have to use pvc again?

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