Questions You Should Know about paint extension pole supplier

Post by Sandtrap » Sun Apr 28, 1:37 pm

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roamingzebra wrote: &#;

Sun Apr 28, 1:00 pm

Sandtrap wrote: &#;

Sat Apr 27, 8:27 pm

use a good quality pole and mini rollers with good naps.
prep excellently
prime
use good sherwin williams paint

use a good quality pole and mini rollers with good naps.prep excellentlyprimeuse good sherwin williams paint

I recently did some trim using a Wooster "Semi-Smooth" roller on the hardware store's recommendation. Worked well, but I had good leverage since I was working at ground level. Is that an okay nap for working at height where I have less control?

If one story, use a stiff painting pole, all aluminum or the yellow fiberglass one.

I was thinking of this one:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Wooster-6-f ... /

A reviewer said it had an outer fiberglass tube and an inner hex shaped aluminum tube.

Roll up and down with the mini roller with a thick nap to hold paint but thin enough to get close to the roof flashing but not hit the roof flashing or shingles. Takes skill. Use a "M N M N" pattern so the roller zig zags little by little across the fascia from l to r or r to L. Roll it twice, at least, to even out the paint layer.

Good tips, thanks.

https://www.amazon.com/Warner-Paint-Ext ... gKVpfD_BwE
There are all kinds of brush swivels but they are cheapy flimsy or don't work well. The pros use this one.

Then "cut in" with a brush using this swivel attachment on a pole. Will not work higher than 1 story.There are all kinds of brush swivels but they are cheapy flimsy or don't work well. The pros use this one.

Pretty pricey, but would be okay if it worked.

The area in question gets a lot of weathering so I'm hoping to get the right equipment and learn the appropriate skills so I can repaint every couple of years or so.

The fascia and other trim on a home has to be prepped and painted well. In doing so, it will make the house look good. A bad job really stands out.

This brings up a dumb question, but I've always thought primer was some kind of unique formulation, but recently read that it is simply paint without pigment. That leads to the obvious question: can a layer of paint be used as primer? I have a big can of paint -- more than I need for trim -- so it would be great if I could use it as primer as well as paint.

I recently did some trim using a Wooster "Semi-Smooth" roller on the hardware store's recommendation. Worked well, but I had good leverage since I was working at ground level. Is that an okay nap for working at height where I have less control?I was thinking of this one:A reviewer said it had an outer fiberglass tube and an inner hex shaped aluminum tube.Good tips, thanks.Pretty pricey, but would be okay if it worked.The area in question gets a lot of weathering so I'm hoping to get the right equipment and learn the appropriate skills so I can repaint every couple of years or so.This brings up a dumb question, but I've always thought primer was some kind of unique formulation, but recently read that it is simply paint without pigment. That leads to the obvious question: can a layer of paint be used as primer? I have a big can of paint -- more than I need for trim -- so it would be great if I could use it as primer as well as paint.

quality primer is not "paint without pigment". It is made to fill and stick or other various properties needed per use. IE: Zinzer bullseye stinky stain coverage primer, PVA sealer primer for drywall, etc. Primer is the layer that bonds the paint to wood or surface optimally, whereas the sold as "primer all in one" is a bit scammy. This is why paint peels besides bad prep.

A fascia gets a lot of weathering. Scrape and clear out anything not bonding or loose, hammer down nail pops from the rafter tails, caulk with great not cheap caulking and patch as needed with good quality patch/sealer. Then prime with a great primer. Then paint 2-3 coats to good coverage.
Sherwin Williams, go to their store, will give you good recommendations.

They will tint your primer so it matches the paint color, so you don't get "see thru holidays". Some pros tint the primer just a tad lighter so that when the paint goes on, they can see better where was painted and where it was not.

The "wooster's" are great stuff, but not the cheap wooster naps. They don't hold much paint and drip out. Too fat and you won't be able to roll tight up to the roof flashing and then more brush work to cut under that. Too thin "fuzz" nap and it won't hold much paint. Cheap paint is really watery. But, nowadays, some "all in one primer/paint" ie: Beyer Home Depot is really sticky and they put additives to make it thick and seem like quality. The expense of paint is in the pigment and weathering additives. Not water.

Get the better quality roller handles as well. Not the cheap flexy ones. And the short handle ones since you're putting it on a pole anyway. The longer handle rollers have too much flex. Also, you're putting a lot of pressure so the cheap plastic handles on the cheap ones will crack.

You can "bag" your roller with layers of plastic shopping bags at the end of the day so you don't have to wash it out if you're going to paint the next day anyway, also on breaks. But, brushes need to be cleaned up well. Purdy brushes if you can afford it. Cheap brushes are cheap and hard to use and also leave a funky surface. If you are on a ladder, you can speed things up with a roll and flare which makes it nice. Use your "wooster roller" to get the paint on medium thick, then smooth it out with the brush. A small bucket on a hook on the ladder works fast. You can rest the ladder on the gutter, not the edge of the roofing. It goes pretty quick. Prep one day, scrape and clean. Then caulk and patch. Let dry. Then prime, let dry. Then paint.

If it is breezy and you live in a dry place, the paint will "flash off" pretty quick. You can extend the drying time to give you time to work if you add "Floetrol" or some other similar additive to make the paint smooth and easy to apply as well. Ask the Sherwin Williams guy. Unlike Home Depot/Lowes, they are pros and know paint, etc.

If you decide to hire out, ask the Sherwin Williams contractor supply place for some referrals. They won't give you someone lousy. Just pros.

I hope this is helpful.
j

quality primer is not "paint without pigment". It is made to fill and stick or other various properties needed per use. IE: Zinzer bullseye stinky stain coverage primer, PVA sealer primer for drywall, etc. Primer is the layer that bonds the paint to wood or surface optimally, whereas the sold as "primer all in one" is a bit scammy. This is why paint peels besides bad prep.A fascia gets a lot of weathering. Scrape and clear out anything not bonding or loose, hammer down nail pops from the rafter tails, caulk with great not cheap caulking and patch as needed with good quality patch/sealer. Then prime with a great primer. Then paint 2-3 coats to good coverage.Sherwin Williams, go to their store, will give you good recommendations.They will tint your primer so it matches the paint color, so you don't get "see thru holidays". Some pros tint the primer just a tad lighter so that when the paint goes on, they can see better where was painted and where it was not.The "wooster's" are great stuff, but not the cheap wooster naps. They don't hold much paint and drip out. Too fat and you won't be able to roll tight up to the roof flashing and then more brush work to cut under that. Too thin "fuzz" nap and it won't hold much paint. Cheap paint is really watery. But, nowadays, some "all in one primer/paint" ie: Beyer Home Depot is really sticky and they put additives to make it thick and seem like quality. The expense of paint is in the pigment and weathering additives. Not water.Get the better quality roller handles as well. Not the cheap flexy ones. And the short handle ones since you're putting it on a pole anyway. The longer handle rollers have too much flex. Also, you're putting a lot of pressure so the cheap plastic handles on the cheap ones will crack.You can "bag" your roller with layers of plastic shopping bags at the end of the day so you don't have to wash it out if you're going to paint the next day anyway, also on breaks. But, brushes need to be cleaned up well. Purdy brushes if you can afford it. Cheap brushes are cheap and hard to use and also leave a funky surface. If you are on a ladder, you can speed things up with a roll and flare which makes it nice. Use your "wooster roller" to get the paint on medium thick, then smooth it out with the brush. A small bucket on a hook on the ladder works fast. You can rest the ladder on the gutter, not the edge of the roofing. It goes pretty quick. Prep one day, scrape and clean. Then caulk and patch. Let dry. Then prime, let dry. Then paint.If it is breezy and you live in a dry place, the paint will "flash off" pretty quick. You can extend the drying time to give you time to work if you add "Floetrol" or some other similar additive to make the paint smooth and easy to apply as well. Ask the Sherwin Williams guy. Unlike Home Depot/Lowes, they are pros and know paint, etc.If you decide to hire out, ask the Sherwin Williams contractor supply place for some referrals. They won't give you someone lousy. Just pros.I hope this is helpful.

How do you &#;Pick the Right Pole for your Project&#;? If you look through our product catalog you&#;ll be inundated with the breadth of our extension pole product line.  Different lengths, materials, threaded ends, fluted, fixed length &#; the list of options goes on and on. With so many different extension poles to choose from we figured it would help to provide a guide.

Begin by asking yourself these three questions.

1. What will I be using the pole for?

2. How often will I use it?

3. How high, or far, do I need to reach?

The answers to these questions will help you narrow down your selection. An example: A homeowner who will be painting the outside of their home this summer. They will want to use this pole to paint their interior sometime later this year. Their home is two stories and they have a cathedral ceiling in their home&#;s entryway.

Because of the multiple uses and high reach needed, you will want to choose a heavy duty or professional extension pole. Also, when determining the length of extension pole to purchase the following rule of thumb applies. Your height minus 6&#; plus the length of a fully extended pole equals the height you will be able to reach. Most two story homes will require you to use at least an 18&#; extension pole.

A heavier fiberglass pole suitable for painting may not be the best choice if you plan to use it only for dusting. For dusting you can choose a lightweight aluminum or steel extension pole. When choosing between aluminum or steel poles, most aluminum poles and sliders are anodized which prevents rust and provides a smooth extension. Steel poles can rust over time so don&#;t purchase a steel pole if your application requires contact with water.

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Water-fed Poles & Brushes

If you have a task that requires the use of water, Mr. LongArm offers two styles of water-fed poles to be used in many different outdoor cleaning situations. The HydraSoar and TeleWash extension poles can be connected to a standard garden hose via a flow control shut-off valve. Using various styles of brushes you can clean decks, siding, patios, windows, boats, RVs, automobiles, masonry and many other surfaces. Using a flow-thru angle adaptor you can also clean gutters or water hanging plants.

All Fiberglass Poles

If you need a pole to change light bulbs you definitely need to choose a pole with a fiberglass handle or even better one with a fiberglass slider as well. Fiberglass is heavier and more rigid than other materials but more importantly it is non-conductive under most circumstances. That makes it much safer to use around electricity than metal poles. Since, we&#;re on the subject, extension poles should never be used around electrical wires. Be sure that while you are extending your reach to finish difficult jobs you are not inadvertently reaching up to electrical wires since most extension poles are highly conductive.

Locking Mechanisms

Internal Twist Locking

Twist locking extension poles, usually aluminum or steel, offer a good lock with the versatility of locking at any length. Mr. LongArm Twist-Lok poles are bi-directional and lock with a twist in either direction. These poles are lighter and are the easiest to handle. They are great for the DIYer and best used in combination with other light-weight attachments like squeegees or painting tools.

Compression Locking

Compression locking extension poles, such as our Alumiglass or Pro-Lok Poles, also provide the versatility of locking at any length and are available in two and three section extended length poles. Mr. LongArm also offers three section poles that extend up to 23&#;. These poles have the longest reach and are great for painting or cleaning 2-story structures.

Push Button Positive Locking

Positive locking poles are popular with most paint contractors since they provide a push button locking device and are faster to change lengths. This type of locking mechanism is found in our Smart-Lok and Super Tab-Lok line of poles. You will want to choose a positive locking pole for prep work such as sanding and scraping since these activities require applied pressure. Positive locking poles only lock in pre-set lengths, 1-2 ft and 2-4 ft poles lock every three inches and all others lock every six inches. Smart-Lok poles also offer a push button tool changing system as opposed to fixed threads.

The Smart-Lok system, is universal and will work with most standard threaded tools. Smart-Lok is an excellent choice for multiple color changes and really increases your productivity. One last big advantage to these two poles is they are easy to service if paint or something else interferes with the button. All the user has to do is pop the button off and remove the foreign substance or object inhibiting the lock.

Still Need Help?

Armed with this information, as well as your own personal preferences and budget, you should be able to make an educated decision about which extension pole is right for your project. Mr. LongArm extension poles are found in the paint department at many local hardware stores and home centers.

If you are still unsure about how to pick the right pole for your project. Call our customer service department at 1-800-821- and we will be happy to assist you. You can also try our Pick-A-Pole App.

To keep up with Mr. LongArm on social media, follow us out on Facebook , Instagram & Twitter.

 

 

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