Ordering a lathe.

I din't ask them anything really. After some of the threads on here, i did not want to be the first for any part of it. I only emailed with Barb a bit in sales concerning my quote. Then on the backorder for the monitor stand.
I am pretty sure my solution will work well and is far less than the numbers I see in that closer thread. There is a rock solid mounting already on the lathe with 4 threaded holes that I will use to mount a plate that the cylinder is mounted to. It is a 2" bore 1.5" stroke pancake cylinder. Some 1/2" 20 rod and a 1/2" rod end will finish the mechanical part. Then I ordered the solenoid, regulator, filter, tubing and fittings. A ball valve and that rounds it all out. Not much to it really.

Oh and I just made my first facing cut.

Hi Tim.I din't ask them anything really. After some of the threads on here, i did not want to be the first for any part of it.I only emailed with Barb a bit in sales concerning my quote. Then on the backorder for the monitor stand.I am pretty sure my solution will work well and is far less than the numbers I see in that closer thread. There is a rock solid mounting already on the lathe with 4 threaded holes that I will use to mount a plate that the cylinder is mounted to. It is a 2" bore 1.5" stroke pancake cylinder. Some 1/2" 20 rod and a 1/2" rod end will finish the mechanical part. Then I ordered the solenoid, regulator, filter, tubing and fittings. A ball valve and that rounds it all out. Not much to it really.Oh and I just made my first facing cut.

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You need two very special, but inexpensive tools to get it right:

The first is called a "fish tail" type thread gage for obvious reasons. It is a 2' long piece of steel rule material with 60 degree cuts all over it. It does two things - it helps grind the tool with the correct angle and also helps you line the tool up correctly.



The second important tool is to help you get the "pitch diameter" correct. While there are expensive pitch diameter micrometers that make this measurement quick and easy for a production situation. You can save money for hobby work by buying threading wires. They're made by "Pee-Dee. It comes with a chart that explains which wire to use and what the measurement should be for each thread size. you hold one wire on top of the bolt in the thread and two on the other side in adjacent thread and measure across the wires. It takes practice, but it gets easier after a few tries.

Here are important tips:

1. Your compound slide should be turned to 29.5 degrees from perpendicular to the spindle. This sounds strange for 60 degree threads, but it makes sure that you're doing 99% of the cut on left thread face and just cleaning up the right. If you set it at 30 degrees, the right thread face will be jagged or even have microscopic steps.

2. Take very tiny cuts, this puts high pressure on the tool bit.

3. Use plenty of thick oil, not coolant.

4. The tool should not be a sharp V. Pay attention to the geometry. Every thread has a flat at the top and bottom of the groove. The one at the bottom should be ground (or hand-stoned) onto the toolbit.



5. If you are threading more than about 4x the major diameter use a live center. Again, this puts high pressure on the tool bit, which also causes deflection.

6. Even on short threads, deflection may cause the pitch diameter at the end (start) to be larger than the rest of the bolt. Always run the tool through twice without advancing the compound slide before measuring with the wires.

7. Always put a nice chamfer on the end of the bolt BEFORE YOU START THREADING. Typically 1.5X the depth of the thread. It eases the initial shock on the toolbit when it first engages the workpiece.

8. If you ever try to create metric threads on an inch leadscrew - never disengage the thread feed-nut. You need a landing groove and you MUST stop the feed by stopping the spindle (typically with the brake), then reverse the motor to get back to the end of the bolt. The threading gage on the lathe will not work for most metric pitches.

Good Luck!

Single point threading takes practice. As someone posted previously pick up a copy of the Machinery Handbook. Even an antique edition will have more than enough info on thread dimensions and geometry. The fact that you're referring to the starting diameter as the "root diameter" makes it pretty clear that you're trying to make this happen without formal training - so I'll give you what you need in a nutshell.You need two very special, but inexpensive tools to get it right:The first is called a "fish tail" type thread gage for obvious reasons. It is a 2' long piece of steel rule material with 60 degree cuts all over it. It does two things - it helps grind the tool with the correct angle and also helps you line the tool up correctly.The second important tool is to help you get the "pitch diameter" correct. While there are expensive pitch diameter micrometers that make this measurement quick and easy for a production situation. You can save money for hobby work by buying threading wires. They're made by "Pee-Dee. It comes with a chart that explains which wire to use and what the measurement should be for each thread size. you hold one wire on top of the bolt in the thread and two on the other side in adjacent thread and measure across the wires. It takes practice, but it gets easier after a few tries.Here are important tips:1. Your compound slide should be turned to 29.5 degrees from perpendicular to the spindle. This sounds strange for 60 degree threads, but it makes sure that you're doing 99% of the cut on left thread face and just cleaning up the right. If you set it at 30 degrees, the right thread face will be jagged or even have microscopic steps.2. Take very tiny cuts, this puts high pressure on the tool bit.3. Use plenty of thick oil, not coolant.4. The tool should not be a sharp V. Pay attention to the geometry. Every thread has a flat at the top and bottom of the groove. The one at the bottom should be ground (or hand-stoned) onto the toolbit.5. If you are threading more than about 4x the major diameter use a live center. Again, this puts high pressure on the tool bit, which also causes deflection.6. Even on short threads, deflection may cause the pitch diameter at the end (start) to be larger than the rest of the bolt. Always run the tool through twice without advancing the compound slide before measuring with the wires.7. Always put a nice chamfer on the end of the bolt BEFORE YOU START THREADING. Typically 1.5X the depth of the thread. It eases the initial shock on the toolbit when it first engages the workpiece.8. If you ever try to create metric threads on an inch leadscrew - never disengage the thread feed-nut. You need a landing groove and you MUST stop the feed by stopping the spindle (typically with the brake), then reverse the motor to get back to the end of the bolt. The threading gage on the lathe will not work for most metric pitches.Good Luck!

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