Post
by Harold_V » Sat Nov 14, 12:29 am
SINOTOOLS are exported all over the world and different industries with quality first. Our belief is to provide our customers with more and better high value-added products. Let's create a better future together.
737mechanic wrote:Harald_V Do you use two wheels, one for roughing and one for finishing or do you just use one wheel for both.
Because I have but one spindle at my disposal, I use just one wheel. I like to make it a 60 grit, which is a great compromise on moving material and achieving a decent grind. If you have the option of a two spindles, it's not a bad idea to have a roughing wheel (46 grit) and a finishing wheel (80 grit).
I am seeing lots of wheels on ebay but the numbers are not meaning much except the grit. What do the other numbers and letters mean.
Related articles:
What is the best wrench brand?
Contact us to discuss your requirements of abrasive grinding wheel manufacturers. Our experienced sales team can help you identify the options that best suit your needs.
One of the best things you can do to help you understand grinding wheel terms is to investigate the link Jose provided. Mean time, here's what a typical (Norton) wheel may say:
38A80-K5VBE
38 is the type of aluminum oxide. They have developed types that lend themselves to given grinding circumstances. 38 is advised for grinding HSS. You can use other designations with success, however. They might be 19, or 32. Avoid any wheel that has a designation 37C or 39C. These are silicon carbide wheels, which are not suited to grinding HSS.
The A designates that it is, indeed, aluminum oxide. In its place you would see a C were the wheel a silicon carbide wheel.
80 designates the grit size.
K designates the wheel hardness. You should concern yourself with wheels that range between H and M. A is a very soft wheel, Z is a very hard wheel. It is important for you to understand that hardness of the wheel is reliant on surface speed. As a wheel diminishes in size, it behaves softer. Speeding up a small wheel will restore its capabilities to a full sized wheel, although the diminished surface area will yield a like reduction in overall ability.
In regards to hardness----it relates to the hardness of the bond, not the abrasive. The grit in a B wheel is the same hardness as the grit in a Z wheel, but the B wheel will shed dull grit easier (faster) than a Z wheel, in order to keep the wheel sharp. Rule of thumb is a soft wheel for hard material, and a hard wheel for soft material.
5 designates structure. It can range from 0 through 12. A low number indicates a small space between the bits of abrasive, while a high number indicates a more open structure. An open wheel will grind somewhat cooler and faster than a close wheel. You can work perfectly well with wheels that range between 5 and 10.
The letter V designates the bond, which is, in this case, vitrified. There are five different bond types, of which only two should be of concern. Vitrified wheels are the bond of choice, the exception being a resinoid bonded wheel for parting operations. Other bonds are made for specific purposes and aren't likely to be of concern to the home shop.
Along with the vitrified and resinoid bonded wheel types, silicate, shellac and rubber are the other options. You are highly unlikely to encounter them.
The balance of the nomenclature (the BE that follows the V) is generally a modification or variation on the bond type, and is not necessarily of concern to you.
I also noticed in your write-ups that you talk about 7in. wheels, the link below shows an 8in., would that be better as long as my grinder will except it or is there a reason not to go with an 8in over the 7in.
If your grinder will accept 8" wheels, and not over-speed them in operation, certainly make them your choice. The one negative is that they are not as readily available, so you may not find them in equal volumes as you will the 7" wheels. The only caution I advise is that you know the speed of your spindle, and that you do NOT exceed the recommended speed of the wheel. Most 8" wheels are safe to run @ 3,600 RPM, but make sure that is stated on the blotter. Exploding grinding wheels are exceedingly lethal.
Hope this helps .
Harold
Because I have but one spindle at my disposal, I use just one wheel. I like to make it a 60 grit, which is a great compromise on moving material and achieving a decent grind. If you have the option of a two spindles, it's not a bad idea to have a roughing wheel (46 grit) and a finishing wheel (80 grit).One of the best things you can do to help you understand grinding wheel terms is to investigate the link Jose provided. Mean time, here's what a typical (Norton) wheel may say:38A80-K5VBE38 is the type of aluminum oxide. They have developed types that lend themselves to given grinding circumstances. 38 is advised for grinding HSS. You can use other designations with success, however. They might be 19, or 32. Avoid any wheel that has a designation 37C or 39C. These are silicon carbide wheels, which are not suited to grinding HSS.The A designates that it is, indeed, aluminum oxide. In its place you would see a C were the wheel a silicon carbide wheel.80 designates the grit size.K designates the wheel hardness. You should concern yourself with wheels that range between H and M. A is a very soft wheel, Z is a very hard wheel. It is important for you to understand that hardness of the wheel is reliant on surface speed. As a wheel diminishes in size, it behaves softer. Speeding up a small wheel will restore its capabilities to a full sized wheel, although the diminished surface area will yield a like reduction in overall ability.In regards to hardness----it relates to the hardness of the bond, not the abrasive. The grit in a B wheel is the same hardness as the grit in a Z wheel, but the B wheel will shed dull grit easier (faster) than a Z wheel, in order to keep the wheel sharp. Rule of thumb is a soft wheel for hard material, and a hard wheel for soft material.5 designates structure. It can range from 0 through 12. A low number indicates a small space between the bits of abrasive, while a high number indicates a more open structure. An open wheel will grind somewhat cooler and faster than a close wheel. You can work perfectly well with wheels that range between 5 and 10.The letter V designates the bond, which is, in this case, vitrified. There are five different bond types, of which only two should be of concern. Vitrified wheels are the bond of choice, the exception being a resinoid bonded wheel for parting operations. Other bonds are made for specific purposes and aren't likely to be of concern to the home shop.Along with the vitrified and resinoid bonded wheel types, silicate, shellac and rubber are the other options. You are highly unlikely to encounter them.The balance of the nomenclature (the BE that follows the V) is generally a modification or variation on the bond type, and is not necessarily of concern to you.If your grinder will accept 8" wheels, and not over-speed them in operation, certainly make them your choice. The one negative is that they are not as readily available, so you may not find them in equal volumes as you will the 7" wheels. The only caution I advise is that you know the speed of your spindle, and that you do NOT exceed the recommended speed of the wheel. Most 8" wheels are safe to run @ 3,600 RPM, but make sure that is stated on the blotter. Exploding grinding wheels are exceedingly lethal.Hope this helps .Harold
If you want to learn more, please visit our website plier and cutter manufacturer.
Comments
0