Idea for a high capacity e-bike using LiFePO4 12 volt batteries ...

lakeyboi12 said: )

Interesting. Had never considered motor overheating. Perhaps some kind of forced cooling system (fan ziptied next to the motor

Want more information on chinese e bikes supplier? Feel free to contact us.

Click to expand...

There are a number of motor-cooling threads including testing of assorted methods...but you can't cool the parts that need it with just a fan from outside unless you cut it open to reach the inside and leave it exposed to the elements. :/

The 'easiest" option is statorade plus hubsinks for a hubmotor. YOu'll find several motors in the simulator have the option to test out all three--plain, just statorade, and that plus hubsinks, and some conditions will show a dramatic difference in results between these.


But the best thing is using a motor setup capable of handling the conditions.


I used two (mismatched) MXUS 450x (one 4, one 5) motors and controllers (one ancient Grinfineon, one generic) on my SB Cruiser heavy-cargo trike, one in each rear wheel, and could easily ride up the steep hill of 7th street at north mountain, and CrazyBike2 before that could easily handle Cave Creek Road which is very similar, in the same area, at 20MPH, with only about 70-80A current on a 52v battery. (might've been less, that was a few years back). No overheating in the several minutes it takes to reach the top, after riding at the same speed to get there.

I still use one of those motors and controllers on the left side of SBC, and a smaller motor (Ultramotor off an A2B) but better (and higher current) controller (Phaserunner v6) on the right; haven't tested this combination out on those slopes though I expect similar results.

lakeyboi12 said:

or amp limit on the controller would be a solution.

Click to expand...

Then you limit the torque the motor can create, and thus the speed you can go up the hill and the amount of weight it can push up the hill...but if you keep trying to push the higher amount of weight then the motor overheats because it's going to slow and internal current rises too much making too much waste heat.

lakeyboi12 said:

On the simulation I can see hub motors really hate any sort of grade. I'm leaning towards the BBSHD and slapping it onto a kit bike then. It has good torque and large fins for heat dissipation. 20% grades are not too common but there are a few 10%ers.

Related articles:
Stemco Seal Cross Reference: Finding the Right Seal for Your Needs
Exploring the Great Outdoors: The Advantages of Outdoor Camping Car Rooftop Tents
Top 5 Reasons Why Electric Motorcycles Beat Gas Motorcycles
The Impact of Brake Pad Quality on Vehicle Performance
Exploring the Latest Auto Spare Parts Trends
The Ultimate Guide to Finding Quality Auto Spare Parts
What is iridescent car wrap?

For more information, please visit electric motorcycles manufacturer.

Click to expand...

Hubs vs grade results depend on the specific winding of the motor (kV) vs voltage used vs wheelsize they're in vs speed you go and grade. Set it up right for the expected conditions and it'll work fine...but it's all a compromise between those worst-case conditions and the rest of your ride requirements. :/

Non hubs include a gearing ratio between the motor and wheel as well as those things, so any of them that use the pedal drivetrain (or other shiftable gear ratio) to get the motor power to the wheel allow you to shift gears as needed for the conditions of the moment, just like you do when pedalling, to keep the load as low as possible while maintaining the speed you're after.

lakeyboi12 said:

The batteries are pretty new and only have a few cycles so I assume there's at least 5 kWh left in there.

Click to expand...

What kind of Wh/km did you get in your simulations? (you can also use the trip simulator to test out entire routes, etc, and get a better idea of usage).

Using the Wh/km average you can divide your capacity by that to get a range guesstimate.

FWIW, 48v (4x12v) x 100Ah is only Wh, but if yours had more capacity than they were "rated" for then you might get your assumption amount.

If you have 5kWh available, and need 100km range, you need to keep the average Wh/km usage down to / 100 = 50Wh/km.

There are a number of motor-cooling threads including testing of assorted methods...but you can't cool the parts that need it with just a fan from outside unless you cut it open to reach the inside and leave it exposed to the elements. :/The 'easiest" option is statorade plus hubsinks for a hubmotor. YOu'll find several motors in the simulator have the option to test out all three--plain, just statorade, and that plus hubsinks, and some conditions will show a dramatic difference in results between these.But the best thing is using a motor setup capable of handling the conditions.I used two (mismatched) MXUS 450x (one 4, one 5) motors and controllers (one ancient Grinfineon, one generic) on my SB Cruiser heavy-cargo trike, one in each rear wheel, and could easily ride up the steep hill of 7th street at north mountain, and CrazyBike2 before that could easily handle Cave Creek Road which is very similar, in the same area, at 20MPH, with only about 70-80A current on a 52v battery. (might've been less, that was a few years back). No overheating in the several minutes it takes to reach the top, after riding at the same speed to get there.I still use one of those motors and controllers on the left side of SBC, and a smaller motor (Ultramotor off an A2B) but better (and higher current) controller (Phaserunner v6) on the right; haven't tested this combination out on those slopes though I expect similar results.Then you limit the torque the motor can create, and thus the speed you can go up the hill and the amount of weight it can push up the hill...but if you keep trying to push the higher amount of weight then the motor overheats because it's going to slow and internal current rises too much making too much waste heat.Hubs vs grade results depend on the specific winding of the motor (kV) vs voltage used vs wheelsize they're in vs speed you go and grade. Set it up right for the expected conditions and it'll work fine...but it's all a compromise between those worst-case conditions and the rest of your ride requirements. :/Non hubs include a gearing ratio between the motor and wheel as well as those things, so any of them that use the pedal drivetrain (or other shiftable gear ratio) to get the motor power to the wheel allow you to shift gears as needed for the conditions of the moment, just like you do when pedalling, to keep the load as low as possible while maintaining the speed you're after.What kind of Wh/km did you get in your simulations? (you can also use the trip simulator to test out entire routes, etc, and get a better idea of usage).Using the Wh/km average you can divide your capacity by that to get a range guesstimate.FWIW, 48v (4x12v) x 100Ah is only Wh, but if yours had more capacity than they were "rated" for then you might get your assumption amount.If you have 5kWh available, and need 100km range, you need to keep the average Wh/km usage down to / 100 = 50Wh/km.

The company is the world’s best chinese ebike supplier. We are your one-stop shop for all needs. Our staff are highly-specialized and will help you find the product you need.