E-bike fires can have devastating consequences. They dont have to.
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Congress has the opportunity to advance legislation that would protect Americans from deadly battery fires and preserve access to the e-bikes and e-scooters consumers want. The Setting Consumer Standards for Lithium-Ion Battery Safety Act is a bipartisan bill that would require the CPSC to issue a safety standard for rechargeable lithium-ion batteries used in e-mobility devices. UL Standards & Engagement encourages the passage of this important legislation.
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UL standards reduce the risk of battery fires in electric bikes and electric scooters by ensuring that products are designed and constructed according to rigorous safety requirements. When an e-bike, e-scooter, or hoverboard is certified to a UL standard, buyers are assured that the products batteries, chargers, electrical systems, and more, have been designed and tested to withstand conditions that the device may encounter during normal use. These conditions include high ambient temperatures, water exposure, and vibration. Certain tests even take abnormal use and foreseeable misuse into account, such as mechanical shock from a drop or fall, or overcharging due to a fault in the charging control circuitry.
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eCouleeRider said:I believe it is in the battery itself, I don't see how it could do cell pack balancing otherwise. FWIW, after installing an aftermarket controller there were no config parameters oriented to the battery, besides the low voltage shutoff (I use 40v) which kills power to the motor but still leaves the lights and controller powered. So I will bet that if I set the controller voltage shutoff to some silly low value (eg 36volts), the battery's BMS would shut things down before reaching that low voltage. Not going to test that though, want to milk this battery for as much useful life as I can get. When the BMS does shut down the battery that battery stays off until charged for a while. Only did that once just to see what would happen. Click to expand...
I believe it is in the battery itself, I don't see how it could do cell pack balancing otherwise. FWIW, after installing an aftermarket controller there were no config parameters oriented to the battery, besides the low voltage shutoff (I use 40v) which kills power to the motor but still leaves the lights and controller powered. So I will bet that if I set the controller voltage shutoff to some silly low value (eg 36volts), the battery's BMS would shut things down before reaching that low voltage. Not going to test that though, want to milk this battery for as much useful life as I can get. When the BMS does shut down the battery that battery stays off until charged for a while. Only did that once just to see what would happen.There are two fuses in the battery, a 40amp and 5 amp; I assume the 40amp is for discharge through the main terminals, and the 5 amp for charging via the barrel plug. I didn't know of the pulling power via charging port trick, I'd be careful about drawing more than 2 amps from that.
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