The Ultimate Buyer's Guide for Purchasing Best Veterinary Aluminum Needle

Needle Gauges and What They Mean

You can find felting needles in the following gauges: 32, 36, 38, 40 and 42, with the needles on either end of the spectrum being the least common. As the number gets higher, the needle is thinner (contrary to what one might think). If you have piercings, you can think of it that way - the typical earring is around 20 gauge, body piercings between 14 and 16 gauge, and those big plugs some people wear go down to 0 or 00, after which they're measured in either inches or centimeters/millimeters. 

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Since most of us lack the tools to measure the gauge between needles, some felting supply companies provide them color coded, or you can easily do this yourself using different color nail polish as soon as you open the package before they get mixed in (don't forget to write down which color is what). I like to make handles for mine using polymer clay, then mark the gauge and type of needle in the clay before baking - but make sure you test the clay you use. I made the mistake of using Sculpey III and that resulted in brittle handles that didn’t hold up. I'm not good about remembering color codes and would rather be able to see it when I need it. It's not a huge deal if you don't color code them, because you can figure out which one works best for you by testing it out - however, if you have a lot of needles, or one breaks on you, it's nice to remember which one was your favorite when it comes time to order some more. Eventually, you’ll probably have one or two styles and sizes that you go to, and you won’t really need to keep track of what’s what - you’ll be able to tell by comparing them which one’s a bit skinnier for the finishing work.

Why all the different gauges? The thicker ones work better for coarse wool, while the thinner ones work better for fine wool. Why do they work this way? Because coarse wool is actually microscopically thicker than fine wool, so a thicker gauge needle would allow for a deeper notch to catch the fiber. That's not to say that a thick gauge would not work on a fine wool, but because it's thick, the holes from poking it in are far more visible. A finer gauge however will not work as well on a coarse wool, because the notches aren't deep enough to really grab it. You can still get the job done, but it'll take a lot more poking to get there. 

If you were to choose just one needle, which one would I recommend? The 38 gauge. It's a good in-between, not too thick for fine wool, but not too thin for coarse. You can even do finishing work if you poke very gently with only the tip and first one-to-two notches of the needle and alternating that with rubbing any holes out to smooth it. Ultimately, if you have a variety of them, even if it's just two or three different ones, you'll quickly get a feel for which one is the most efficient with whichever fiber you're trying to felt.

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Ultrasound is a high-frequency sound wave above 18 kHz, which is inaudible to the human ears. In ultrasonic cleaners, generated ultrasound induces cavitation in the cleaning liquid.[2]

When a sound wave is generated, it is transmitted through a medium, temporarily displacing molecules of the sound-conducting medium. As the wave passes, the molecules compress and enter the compression stage. They decompress and enter the rarefaction phase as the wave progresses through the medium. These phases occur in alternation until the wave dissipates.

At the compression area, the pressure of the medium is positive and becomes negative during rarefaction. The negative pressure increases as the amplitude increases, leading to a formation of a powerful burst of the jet stream made from vacuum bubbles at the rarefaction area, termed cavitation.

The pressure becomes positive when the molecules enter the compression phase, causing the cavitation bubbles to expand and implode. This implosion results in a staggering increase in the temperature that could generate a shock wave at the implosion site.

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