I&#;ve been having a problem with my castings, in that little flakes
seem to be coming off the mold, and causing pits in the castings.
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I think I figured out what was happening.
Because I&#;m working by myself, and have never actually seen anyone
else cast, I&#;ve had to figure most stuff out on my own. I&#;ve been
taking the mold out of the oven, and putting it in my casting machine,
then melting the metal.
Previously, my poor propane torch was barely able to bring any metal
up to casting temperature.
What I figure is happening is that heat from the torch is hitting the
mold, causing some differential heating, flaking, and blowing the
pieces into the mold.
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After the two or so minutes it takes to melt the metal, a fair number
of flakes have gotten into the mold.
I&#;ve read that you&#;re supposed to get the metal ready for casting,
then put the mold into the machine. I&#;m not sure how I can do this
well without four arms, two keeping the torch on the metal, and two
loading the mold.
Anyone have any advice about how I should approach this?
Thanks!
this is lost wax casting or you can sand cast, which may be easier for you.
The problem I see most have in casting bronze, is getting the casting temp. of the mold to a soaked 950f. (barely dull red in the shade)
The next important factor is getting the brass to a casting temp. What you are looking for is a small puff, NOT a pop of blue flame from the surface of the rolling molten brass, by using boric acid as flux, you will have some floating impurities, so when you see the little blue puff of flame, it is ready to pour into the mold and cast. One can steam cast, sling cast (centrifugal) or vacuum cast. You will need to study by search engine the method you will use.
There will be an average of 3% shrinkage of the cast fitting.
I cast my fittings, but I am a Jeweler and I have casted maybe 500lbs of bronze, lots of scrap, brazing rod, bearing races, all mixed, etc.
The advantage I see in casting, is that you can get great and fancy detail in intricate carving of the wax model, which with a wax bur or two for the dremel or foredom, you can quickly carve bolsters, gaurds, pommels, that you can cast and make injectable rubber molds that can be used over many times to make a series of parts for any amount of production runs you might make, big time saver. Do you see where I am going??
If you just want ingots to roll out, which may be the easiest for you, get an cast iron ingot mold the size you want to work with, beeswax it up, get the mold hot till the wax smokes and pour in the brass as soon as it puffs the blue flame, then anneal the ingot by getting it dull red and quenching in cool water, this will need to be done often. Get an small crock pot and fill half way with 50/50 battery acid and water from the auto parts store, this is good to knock the flux, (boric acid) off the ingot and annealing at the same time. The flux is best removed before rolling out, as it is hard stuff and will dent the bronze in the rolling proccess.
I hope this helps, I will try to answer any questions.
Ok, in order to cast brass, you will need a few simple tools and materials.this is lost wax casting or you can sand cast, which may be easier for you.The problem I see most have in casting bronze, is getting the casting temp. of the mold to a soaked 950f. (barely dull red in the shade)The next important factor is getting the brass to a casting temp. What you are looking for is a small puff, NOT a pop of blue flame from the surface of the rolling molten brass, by using boric acid as flux, you will have some floating impurities, so when you see the little blue puff of flame, it is ready to pour into the mold and cast. One can steam cast, sling cast (centrifugal) or vacuum cast. You will need to study by search engine the method you will use.There will be an average of 3% shrinkage of the cast fitting.I cast my fittings, but I am a Jeweler and I have casted maybe 500lbs of bronze, lots of scrap, brazing rod, bearing races, all mixed, etc.The advantage I see in casting, is that you can get great and fancy detail in intricate carving of the wax model, which with a wax bur or two for the dremel or foredom, you can quickly carve bolsters, gaurds, pommels, that you can cast and make injectable rubber molds that can be used over many times to make a series of parts for any amount of production runs you might make, big time saver. Do you see where I am going??If you just want ingots to roll out, which may be the easiest for you, get an cast iron ingot mold the size you want to work with, beeswax it up, get the mold hot till the wax smokes and pour in the brass as soon as it puffs the blue flame, then anneal the ingot by getting it dull red and quenching in cool water, this will need to be done often. Get an small crock pot and fill half way with 50/50 battery acid and water from the auto parts store, this is good to knock the flux, (boric acid) off the ingot and annealing at the same time. The flux is best removed before rolling out, as it is hard stuff and will dent the bronze in the rolling proccess.I hope this helps, I will try to answer any questions.
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